The perfect sign of wealth is the luxury watch.
She speaks instead of the wearer. It says a lot about his job, his leisure, his purchasing power and knowledge of the sector.
By dint of reading about watches and see the excitement they generate, everyone eventually be persuaded: timepieces are attributes with a message to deliver. They attract them, those wishing to express something of their personality through these everyday objects. If it is possible to disseminate information subliminally, it is important and even essential to choose the right instrument in different situations to see through the object, a self-image in line with its expectations. In absolute terms, the time spent at work and contact with customers or employees required to choose one compatible with his attire or even his job. All urban residents do not work in new technologies or in areas where the holding allows indulge in its first watch pulse.
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In terms of wear watch, drawing and sports function normally limit the new Chanel J12 Chromatic athletes or bankers and businessmen yielding to the pleasure of Friday wear. But experience shows that between the initial use, and actual practice, the gap is often important. Everyone knows at a certain level of influence in the world of work, unless one chooses his watch for the pleasure it provides that, depending on the effect it produces. It is therefore useful to consider the impact that can have a little thing on the perception of any observers on us. It is worth remembering that in the world of appearances, all is not only a question of price, it is mainly a taste.
Thus, the expert will always find among hundreds of references, one that will never date without dating. This year - and many are not there to be deceived - it will take with the new Pequignet Manufacture collection. Just shop delivered the first parts, especially the steel model Rue RoyaleShould appeal to fans who want to get their money. They will not be disappointed, the products are as beautiful inside as outside. Even purists swear have hands a piece of reference in fine watchmaking, for a price based on the quality, particularly due to the point, they say, to reflect competition.
However, among men of influence spice and originality of the watches is a factor of great importance. Some fans, according to their audience, so they choose to produce small effect carelessly leaving a parcel exceed Perrelet Regulator Retrograde a time display which is something startling. Only, and women know, the male psyche often subjected to simple stimuli reacts strongly. It would be a shame not a weapon of rare efficiency.
This is why some choose to put their wrists in the hands of highly reputable houses like Patek Philippe, Breguet or or Vacheron Constantin.Breguet won this year with a truly timeless creation as can be the new reference Grande Classique 7337. Vacheron Constantin, in January, was unanimously during the presentation of the Patrimony Traditionnelle World, published a piece especially for men traveling much taste. And because it is in human nature, other enthusiasts prefer to ask on their wrists resulting mechanical watches, to those who read between the lines, wishes to be perfect in everything, for everything. Among the range of possibilities, enthusiasts will remember the manual winding IWC Portofino with suggestive curves, and those preferring the originality of mechanical movements with automatic winding by microrotor will have eyes only for the vivacious Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 which the finesse and sleek design are an invitation to try fitting suit.
This choice, the Bell & Ross brand could also do it for the wristwatch inspired models worn by drivers of the Great War.An option taken for parts pocket which are yet part of the same collection. But why complicate things? Customers expect vintage watches in the first place that they base their manliness and less that they help them to be considered by the small circle of collectors as purists in the field. What is true for one is true for the chronograph Big Crown Oris XI Calculator. With this tool, the wearer is in the spirit of the old. The reference is connected to the line of watches that went to fire (the Big Crown were fitted some RAF pilots in 1940), but the object remains a historical extrapolation which were incorporated all codes allowing it to be absorbed a military reference. All vintage watches do not necessarily need to be martial to ensure the consideration of the public.
This leads to the following conclusion: to draw attention of the public, particularly European, you must associate a watch with a story or a function.This is why brands are so much trouble to send them into space or be carried by adventurers. To ensure sales, at least in Europe, it is often enough to revamp a reference part of the past, especially on the occasion of an anniversary. This is the option chosen by the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer offers II. Launched for the first time in 1971 to cavers and adventurers, it returns slightly enlarged, gets a new automatic caliber, a sapphire crystal and the famous bright orange GMT hand that gives great value to ancient coins on the market the collection. The manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen to republish, in two different versions and in limited series, the Memovox Deep Sea in 1959. A version LeCoultre 359 copies for the US market, and a Jaeger-LeCoultre 959 pieces for the rest of the world . In this case, the size of the room was slightly enlarged and the size went from a manual winding (1959) with an automatic.However, and more surprisingly, the company has kept the ice Plexiglas on the contemporary version rather than sapphire which would probably increase the whole production and therefore reduced all margins. As for the Japanese factory Seiko committed to accuracy and balance, she set her sights on this year's first Grand Seiko watch was launched in 1960. Its small size has remained the same as the method of assembly, still manual, but with a movement of new generation. Only concession to modernity, replacing the sapphire crystal glass.
THE FIFTIES, TIMELESS DESIGNS
Most observers have nonetheless noted that when it comes to revive iconic models, trademarks dig extensively in the catalogs of 50-60 years. A period that collectors consider the golden wristwatch age. Okay, there are quite a few references to art deco as the Reverso or seventies as the Monaco TAG Heuer, Audemars Royal Oak, NautilusPatek Philippe chronograph or the Pan Europ Hamilton to attract young consumers. The classic designs and durable timepieces of the 50s, as the sublime perpetual calendar chronograph Patek Philippe Reference 5270 or the new Tudor Advisor, extrapolated from a revival of the fifties model inspire more confidence among consumers who fear to get tired over time somewhat crude drawings boxes models from the 70s The story tends to prove them right. The prices for references 50s is often greater than that of equivalent models launched later. Sense because, instinctively and often because of the investment made, lovers watches play the security card ... as do the brands.
In the world of watchmaking, polished surface but where the competition is fierce, fly high marks in recent years put a point of honor to propose for an elite consumers, instruments for measuring time of rare complexity and whose range of choices continues to expand. In this mechanical ballet, where even watch sometimes lose their Latin as complexity is high, new entrants compete ingenuity as they play elbows to get out of the media and, potentially, to curry favor with the public. Among all possible, here is a selection of ten key models gleaned from 2012.
Cartier Rotonde Minute Repeater Tourbillon
This shows, in the opinion of all, has an undeniable femininity. This is probably due to the fact that this project was overseen by a woman. Indeed, Carole Forestier Kasapi and his team of developers and watchmakers were able to give a real boost to the brand known for its creativity. Since his arrival in the walls of the factory, this young woman has placed among the Cartier brand with a truly daring watch. Without dwelling on the technical details, we note the Rotonde Minute Repeater Tourbillon that the "flagship" model is made of titanium, and for reasons related to luxury, it is also declined in rose gold. However, technical analysis has made his birth was based on a mass volume ratio of titanium was only able to guarantee.
The starting assumption was that the more a watch is large and light, most likely it is ringing loudly. Although media-attractive, it is not enough to make a minute repeater watch a reference acoustics.To help achieve a sound output of 65 decibels, watchmakers have developed truly innovative solutions. The flywheel has been modified so as to produce no noise. The stamp made of a workpiece (blade and heel) and square shape, allow the hammers come into contact with a large surface area. Finally, the patch was attached to the structure of the box, making optimal transmission of acoustic waves. A final result: Send this marvel (45 mm diameter), controlled by a flying tourbillon and waterproof to 30 meters thanks to a push specific weapons is clear and powerful. Performed at the unit and internally, the Rotonde Minute Repeater Tourbillon is immediately positioned as one of the most ambitious references.
TAG Heuer Mikrogirder
Guy Seymon has struck again and impressed.The man is brilliant and wonderfully masters the art of communication, to the point able to convince his audience in a few minutes, with a series of numbers and some basic equations. However, if you look closely, the Mikrogirder bypassing the rules of classical mechanics deserves a little better than analysis to demonstrate the theoretical superiority of the new exhaust on the classic controller "sprung balance" invented by Huygens in 1674.
The relative inaccuracy of the balance organ classic spiral is not greater than the error caused by the acceleration of the controller that goes from 0 to swing 7.2 million vibrations per hour, or 2,000 vibrations per second. Physics is the same for all bodies, and that applies to classical mechanics also applies to watch. Thus, if it takes time for a car to go from 0 to 250 km / hour, it will take proportionally less time, but a time therefore still to reach its cruising speed of a component mounted on very fine pivots ... But who cares!
This exhaust, found in a very similar form in the old quarters rehearsals for regulating the speed of striking hammers, will thrill audiences still looking sensational in a relatively poor world in mechanical development. Although an expert and some developers are competing brands that this device does not provide a real time accuracy more pure. Unless demonstrate scientifically by contrasting a time to 1/1000 quartz and mechanical stopwatch mounted on a bench with a top starting identical. However, this very successful aesthetics was developed for enthusiasts looking to add to their collection as a play, no doubt, will make beautiful scores auction house in a few years, especially if it is aptly described as one of the few successful examples of research intended to advance the profession.
Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of its first watch creation, Chanel presents this shows that the housing is said to be directly inspired by the octagonal geometry of the cap of its iconic Chanel No. 5, itself an extrapolation of the Place Vendome. With this masterpiece of balance and luxury Parisian fashion house and offers women the opportunity to enter fully into the world of high complications.
Indeed, the flying tourbillon cage which is a camellia, is a landmark piece in the trade. Delicate and meaningful at the same time it is a rare sobriety. This reference to the proportions in accordance with the original still has subtly been enlarged since its measurements of 19 x 26 mm for the traditional first moved to a box 28.5 x 37 mm for this enhanced by a whirlwind release. Produced only twenty numbered copies, this watch in 18K white gold is presented here in its version set 228 diamonds totaling 7.7carats (bezel with 38 baguette-cut diamonds and 52 brilliant-cut diamonds, and box set with 47 baguette-cut diamonds).
Regulated by a mechanical hand-wound movement, it was developed in close collaboration with the movement manufacturer Renaud Papi, an Audemars Piguet entity. For the record, and in figures, this delicate jewel watch with a very balanced geometry to bear on an alligator strap or black satin, will need 23 hours of crimping and over 100 hours of assembly. And if this marvel was designed course for women, these gentlemen spice watch appreciate the treatment given to the movement of rectangular shape, with a power reserve of 40 hours and whose components have all been chamfered , drawn, polished and ringed hand, according to the Swiss watchmaking tradition.
Harry Winston Opus 12
Of all the watches presented during the Baselworld 2012 (world exhibition of timepieces) with an original way of reading the Harry Winston Opus 12 was considered by the majority of visitors who had hands like the most successful of all. It must be recognized that the beautiful was unanimously defying conventional rules of watchmaking, with the ambition to provide a three-dimensional representation of how time flows. And the gamble has paid off! Although without a minimum of explanation, it is almost impossible to decipher the displayed time to powerfully open dial.
In this construction of 46 mm diameter white gold, mechanical movement with manual winding contains 607 components and 80 rubies, 2 barrels motor and not less than 24 pins, while the time is displayed in a captivating choreography. In the center of the dial read three information that the eye interprets as essential to force habits with conventional instruments.However, they are secondary concern and the power reserve (white needle to the area in focus), the retrograde five minutes (minute hand from the center) and the permanent second hand immediately indicating the wearer by its round timed, the proper functioning of this wonderful mechanics. In short, the time is read elsewhere and it takes a few seconds to realize that what appeared to be a good size index, are in fact similar to cue rotary needles.
But to understand the operation, nothing like to see in action. For now, we note that the index represents minutes long, and the smallest hour. The long blue markers remain for five minutes to let the retrograde from the center to return to its starting point. At this time, the marker makes a turn to present its metal face while the next door is the same movement exposing precisely five minutes during his blue face.Once 60 minutes have elapsed, all indicators hours performed at a slow speed to make the exciting operation, a full turn. Only the charge indicator displays the next time remains blue, and so forth 24 times per day.
Richard Mille RM 056
This year, among atypical and graphically impactful products, Richard Mille RM 056 offers a piece that meets the desire of elites access to watch models that are up to what they see as part of the extraordinary . Transparent boxes are not an invention in itself; in the past, watches have been dressed in rock crystal. Reserved for powerful, this type of instrument is, silently, domination that can have its owner on the world around him.
Today flyback chronograph competition regulated by a whirlwind dedicated to Felipe Massa, the RM 056 has traded natural rock, a little too fragile for a sapphire case summary obtained by the Verneuil process (1906). This material, with a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, can not be worked with diamond tools. Obviously, the middle, the bezel and back were cut in the mass of a block of sapphire of extraordinary size, and assembled by 20 titanium screws.
It is good to know, to get an idea of the difficulty of implementation, each case took nearly 1000 hours of machining, grinding with 430 and 350 polishing. But the result is here! And housing permits, for each side of the watch, to discover the components of the new caliber RMCC1. This innovative heart, back hand, has the chronograph complication, and also that of split that can meet the measure split times or two times with the same start.This marvel is regulated by a whirlwind I'On known to be an evolution of the RM 008 is lighter by about 20%. He had offset the weight of the sapphire glass, heavier than titanium, a gain achieved by reconfiguring the 400 components that make up this class with a titanium plate. Rare, difficult to produce, this creation was proposed 5 copies during the SIHH 2012. Within hours, all were acquired proof that nothing limits the envy of those who can afford it ...
Bulgari Daniel Roth Tourbillon Carillon
Lovers of music and watch a bit eager to see how his tastes are not those of the majority of the followers of fine mechanics, will be seduced by this reference as it is unusual. The design of the enclosure, not really round or rectangular, combined with original construction of the dial attracts attention. This is the graphic signature of the house Daniel Roth.This brand, Bulgari integrated itself absorbed by LVMH, is well known for its expert mechanisms which always features some intensely poetic thing.
In this case, we note the air character and very successful design of its mechanical movement with manual winding, regulated by a vortex placed at 6 o'clock. Visible through the sapphire crystal dial, this heart of generous proportions (DR3300 31.6 x 34.6 mm), fully realized internally, reveals different components, multiplying the interest of fans of timepieces exception. Indeed, one can see the hammers 10 hours, features a minute repeater.
Their presence is visually confirmed by the pull arming delicate striking mechanism. But what the eye does not see in this assembly comprising a total of 327 components is that the instrument has three hammers. Result:melodic repetition of this sequence three minutes ringing tones, plays the note C for hours, Mi-Re-Do for the quarter and Mi for the minutes elapsed. As the Cartier watch, the main concern of watchmakers was to find a trick to give "safe" to your sound. For that, they screwed directly stamps on the middle box, and to limit the interferences at the start hammers, used a known inertial regulator for its silent operation. A traditional and contemporary, this watch in pink and proposed to 30 copies (the individual number found on the crown) or will be paid on a classic leather strap brown alligator, closed by a buckle in pink gold triple deploying blade.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
This year's Rolex factory has demonstrated his relentless creative potential by presenting a fundamentally revolutionary product, both in terms of functionality and in terms of graphics.That all fans have noticed this first declined in white gold, yellow gold and rose gold watch is the amazing presence of a window in a circle, placed in the center of the dial. Particularly unusual for a Rolex GMT function, this construction has caused a real crowd in front of the windows of the brand, in the early hours of the Baselworld 2012.
This very graphic functionality, capturing all the attention, did not allow observers to discover another detail also appearing on the dial of this amazing instrument. Okay, without reading the press, no one could have guessed that the very discreet windows open behind each of the Roman numerals used to set the annual calendar complication representing, each one of the 12 months of year. And it was even more difficult to consider that the side of middle leaves see no needle for quick adjustment.
In fact, the mechanism, and an ultra rugged reliability has been developed for this complication and called internally "SAROS" because it is directly inspired by the astronomical phenomenon of the same name. Able to consistently recreate the irregular alternating months of 30 and 31 days, it does not require a manual adjustment per year, ie March 1 February with 28 or 29 days.
The setting of this complication is very simple thanks to a manipulation of the rotating bezel of the watch, called the Ring Command. This piece, the brand has already been used for the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II, in this configuration allows to easily set the various functions of the watch. This via an innovative and patented interface between movement and dressing comprising not less than 60 components, all carefully and extensively tested to ensure their sustainability.
Thus, as the telescope is rotated counterclockwise on one of three positions, then it is possible to adjust in one direction or the other and through the crown the annual calendar, the local time or time reference. This automatic watch 42 mm is powered by the manufacture caliber Cal. 9001 given to provide 72 hours of power reserve. Hidden from view (and it is almost a shame), this heart which totals 380 components and 7 patents as all movements of the brand finished to perfection, chronometer-certified by the COSC and protected against water ingress up to 100 meters deep.
Van Cleef Poetic Wish
Created by the jewelery house in 2006, the beautiful series of "poetic complication" is now registered as an artistic trend potential in the small world of watchmaking.It must be said that the world of fashion, which is said the growing influence in the area, immediately grabbed these parts, without going into detail, know sublimate mechanics. The main function here is to set in motion the passage of time. In their own way, these exceptional pieces that are the Lady Arpels Midnight Poetic Wish and future female version, form a pair of instruments that combine with great artistic intensity, two human senses for the sole purpose of transmitting information time with poetry. And this game Wiederrecht excels long time.
Indeed, he knows deconstruct the time display and then materialize his way. In this case, he managed to create from scratch a mechanical watch movement with manual winding, able to sound the hours and minutes, due to a stroke every five minutes elapsed, and to display this sound information through small PLCs.So, moving in a setting created for the occasion, these controllers are in a very unique way, what time it is.
In this dream world dressed in white gold set with diamonds, no needle slides over the dial. The happy owner of the watch (and the few people invited for the occasion to enjoy) is free to choose the time or turn it into an instrument its gem giving time. Suffice it to rotate the fingertips the crown at 2 hours to set in motion the elements able to tell time on the clock, and to quietly listen. Hardly the action taken, the dial comes alive at the grave of his past hours, a male figure and a shooting star or a girl and a kite. In this translational movement, the characters move at the rate of one step per shot rang while the shooting star, as the kite flies in the sky to view the minutes at the rate of a sharper musical note.And because the magic does not last long once the silence income, small robots that have moved on this precious substance back to their original place, leaving their respective owners time to make a wish.
Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar and Flyback
Of all the complications mastered by Patek Philippe, two have always had a special place in the family business established since its inception in Geneva: the chronograph and the even more rare perpetual calendar. Them together in a single watch returns in short to focus the interest of the factory for the measurement of time expressed in all its forms.
Indeed, in such instrument, mechanical fine for displaying the duration of events with great precision, alongside the one developed by experienced watchmakers, with the aim of displaying the main calendar information, without any error in perpetuity. But because the pleasure of business excellence is to always offer more enthusiasts, the factory this year offers a chronograph with perpetual calendar also fitted with a split (ref. 5204), a complication of great finesse Mechanical offering up during a timing, split time or those two events with a common start.
To significantly improve the accuracy of these measurements, engineers have created a Patek Philippe associated with pliers to stop the wheel split and isolate the mobile for performing the zero return that even patented needle mechanism; in order not to disrupt the primary current measurement.In parallel, the factory has invented a new mechanism to help improve the stability of the fly-back hand, once it rest. Subtle and delicate, this manufacture caliber, CH 29-535 PS Q reference, also a pilot schedule. This displays the day, date at 6 o'clock, the months, the leap year indication and moon phases with astronomical precision.
Fascinating complexity, this rare piece is available in platinum, as indicated by the presence of a diamond set into the metal to 6 hours, and offers lovers to discover through the transparent few details of mechanisms to improve the accuracy timing measurements. At a time when some houses will stop at nothing to shine in this area, it is interesting to see how a device, remaining simple, patented, can make a real gain in terms of pure accuracy, the integrated system significantly reducing insulator friction when the fly-back hand is stopped, while the main timer is still running.
Blancpain Villeret Chinese Traditional Calendar
In recent years, watch collections and even some models seem to have been created to meet the needs of Southeast Asian customers. This is only an impression, mostly related to the small size of the box, the colors used and the reasons employees. But in the case of the Blancpain Villeret Chinese Calendar, it is clear that the play was not designed to attract the attention of a Russian or Brazilian. No, certainly, this marvel of ingenuity and originality proposed a limited edition of 20 pieces in platinum and red gold without limitation, is targeting wealthy Chinese, whether on the mainland or Hong Kong, Singapore or Taiwan. One thing is sure, Blancpain intends to take advantage of the Asian manna with the first wristwatch with a traditional Chinese calendar.
Provided with an automatic caliber with 7 days power reserve, this piece takes into account the specificities of the traditional Chinese calendar. Besides the traditional time and the Gregorian calendar in the center, one can read the main points in the Chinese calendar. As traditional double (24 h cycle) shown at 12 am on the day and the month indicating the spacers 9 am-month (12-month cycle) time, the zodiac sign (cycle 12) in the window and at noon, 3 pm, 5 elements and the 10 heavenly stems (cycle 10). Combining these with the zodiac, representing the earthly branches, following a 60-year cycle, primordial in Chinese culture. We also read in an aperture at 6 o'clock, moon phases, a key element of the lunisolar calendar which, by its difference with the Gregorian, results in a variation of the date of Chinese New Year.