As always, vintage watches occupy a significant proportion of new catalogs. On the aesthetic inspired models of the past, they meet the taste of lovers who associate them with a sustainable image and therefore retained value. Given this situation, and governed by the laws of supply and demand, watch companies are riding their history thus offering timepieces able to identify that little something to wake transmission fantasies. But the past has its limits and it seems that brands reach. Decryption to those who yesterday will still infinitely better than today!
That being said, there are modes which, during pose some problems for watch brands surfing tradition. Companies that have experienced good growth by giving new life to watches from the catalogs of their best years seem to falter. Does this mean that the vintage era coming to an end?The collections presented this year do not suggest a reflux trend that saved the manual watches, there are about thirty years. Instead, conscious always remember their history, leave some space to traditional trades and would end the old, trademarks overshadow the watch futurism, whose developments were led to believe a second channel potential mechanical creation .
Do not tempt fate
The luxury he is allergic to modernity? In absolute terms, no. But in watchmaking, litigation with quartz generated a kind of hatred of technology. Moreover, safeguarding the profession is partly due to collectors. By buying older models in 80-90 years, they have prompted brands to produce timepieces inspired from those fans bought, sometimes for the eyes are incongruous industrial sector. In these pioneers time, the vintage appeared as a workaround, and thirty years later, we know that this strategy has made the fortune of these houses have almost died.How not to be tempted to keep this policy, or start it?
Become a specialist in the art of repackaging references who had their heyday, Jaeger-LeCoultre has long been riding the trend by offering revisited historical models, such as the Memovox Polaris, the Memovox Deep Sea, or in 2012, the Reverso Ultra Thin red dial, one original copy made a sales record at Antiquorum. And like watches from historical references seem to sell well, it is tempting to create from scratch a product to stay in the synergy of success. This is the case with the chronograph Deep Sea. To be forgiven this extravagance, Jaeger-LeCoultre is suspected considering the launch next year of a stopwatch GEOPHYSIC vintage series. This piece, in May 2012 at Antiquorum, saw tripled the highest estimates. In this area, there is no chance!
Inspiring is not playing
"The trend is fashion and fashion is carrier ... So be on the page to ride the wave."These words of a marketing manager of a large house is packed with the direction that in some cases, the world of watches inspired by the pass. At Baselworld, Glashütte Original launched the Senator Observer 1911, a free interpretation of the Amundsen stopwatch, South Pole explorer and Hamilton Khaki Navy Pioneer proposed the Limited Edition, a play inspired by the collector marine chronometers 40s . Another example Oris has restyled the famous Big Crown, one of the RAF pilots watches during the Second World War. The house, which knows how to anticipate trends, would she realized that the vintage is a bubble that many brands have been around and it's time to forget a little his past to embark on new adventures?
It is also the option taken by Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 model which is a contemporary iteration of a product of its history. The present trend would therefore be from an old piece and work it to coincide with the tastes of the public.As for the Eberhard & Co brand, it also made the choice to celebrate its 125 anniversary, offering chronograph Extra Strength, a product in the early 50s air underscoring its antiquity, but whose features were subtly improved.
If some vintage models have a commemorative role, others are intended to anchor their presence, and that of the mark in an era and a carrier field. This is the case of Bell & Ross with his WW1 collection (for Wrist Watch One instead of the usual meaning of those letters is three ribbed World War I). Born in the 1990s, the brand relies on this to make people forget his youth and legitimize its presence in an area where instruments with martial character, able to seduce males looking for a product like them, if sell well.
The capture of the past has certainly annoyed more than one; some even felt that historical diversion as identity theft.Thus Zenith responded immediately by offering vintage watches, derived models actually worn by aviation hero. That said, even if you look closely, the aircraft's Watch Type 20 Special proposed by the factory founded in 1865 is visually very little in common with the one that was in his Bleriot crossed the Channel in 1909. Qu 'matter, this gave the opportunity to avenge the insult by placing Zenith in the great watchmaking history while allowing the brand to create a new collection. Of course, these developments do not yet have the reputation of a Breitling Navitimer chronograph or aura of the fabulous Speedmaster presented in 2012 with the case of the version Wally Schirra wore during the mission Mercury Atlas 8, the 3 October 1962. But the coming years will probably Zenith to prevail in the seraglio marks having played a role in the aviation world.
For once, the fans in search of unusual and specialized timepieces will work on the reissue by Hanhart stopwatches the pilots of the 40 were on a mission. The Pioneer Heritage Tachy Tele version 40 mm version is a real success, both mechanical and aesthetic. Surely the Capeland Chrono Automatic (La Joux-Perret) Baume & Mercier, 44 mm, should guarantee the same result, Mile character less. Although the version with a black dial, sporting a telemetric scale and another tachometer, too, has that little something martial. Purists and enthusiasts monopoussoirs and movements to retain the old Chrono Montblanc Villeret Tachydate, a sports reference and chic at the same time. Lovers of rooms to choose more whole graphics in Eterna chronograph Heritage 1938 whose Art Deco housing should compete must Monaco TAG Heuer available in limited series with the coat of arms of the ACM (Automobile Club de Monaco).
Vintage, the future of sport chic
While some may consider wearing a sports watch in the office, though it is possible to escape the conventions with reissues. And this year, the followers of these instruments are spoiled with no less than three almost unavoidable references. The first celebrates 40 years of unfailing success. It is of course the Royal Oak Audemars Piguet watch steel designed by Gerald Genta in 1972. Reissued in 39 mm diameter with the same caliber, it should be enjoyed by fans timepiece charisma powerful and timeless design. But this is not the only one lasting impression. Tudor was also very strong in presenting a room escape all formatted classicism: the Heritage Black Bay, a diving watch inspired by an automatic model from the years 50-60, the very successful design, strengthened by its burgundy glasses in fact one of the best products of the year. Especially as its price is very attractive.More expensive, but a particularly successful drawing, Panerai California 47 mm, with a mechanical movement with manual winding P 3000 and published in 500 copies, features an original steel housing, cushion shape, smooth lines are enhanced by a unique dial mixing Roman and Arabic numerals.
In conclusion, we note that brands have little use their past fare better game while others, unable to expand their heritage, beginning to turn around. The judicious use of their own history based on a selection of strong models that speak to the public. Only in the collections of the past, many references do not deserve to be brought up to date. Today is not the monopoly of bad taste or vulgar, just the story made its sorting, and what some success yesterday is likely to remain valid, provided that the product has been adapted to the fashion of wearing at the time.However, should that marks out again referents models to ensure their future and given the opportunity to have acceptable vintage in 30 years.
Watchmaking: watches of tomorrow, time yesterday
Anxious to meet the demand of consumers watch brands already have in their collections of vintage watches. These contemporary instruments but taken directly from the old, share the bill with models whose design is loosely based subtly retro references who had their heyday in the distant past. Faced with the arrival of these pieces called "retro-futuristic" decryption on the reasons for this enthusiasm and this slow change was needed.
This year, marks the watch fairs offered, including their latest, watches whose aesthetics could only recall older models.The tone was set from the start to the year with the presentation by Jaeger-LeCoultre, on the occasion of 80 years of the model reversible case, the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin with all the features, apart from larger than the original, could - at least photo - suggest that it was the model launched in 1931. Aware of the potential of this market segment, manufacturing called down there in the Vallée de Joux the "big house", also unveiled the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea, a model too vintage for this time to meet consumer savvy round watches. Apart from these magnificent mechanical, eighteen other brands present at the International Salon of Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) rather exhibited overt references which inspired the former could, however, be linked to any particular model. It was during this show that has become the neologism "retro-futuristic".The term, referring to a type of building which features inherited from the past are softened by the use of purely contemporary elements, was then quickly spread. This trend extrapolation vintage was confirmed at the show in Basel or watches in the spirit of the original models, rubbed instruments whose codes subtly mixed details from the past with more modern lines.
This enthusiasm for the regular overhaul of older models comes from the world of auto industry that is often compared to that of watchmaking. But apart from the icons are the Mini and the Fiat 500, no big brand produces simultaneously to news of the year, a clearly designated vehicle based on the most beautiful cars of the past. Citroën, which is believed to want a moment embark vintage, left unsatisfied number of fans of the famous DS after the discovery of one brand to the rafters presented as his heir.
Obviously, many car enthusiasts would do their daily self largely inspired by those of the 50s and with a mechanical equipment of today. But what the automakers are subtle touches, or dare not simply watchmakers exploit without hesitation. Especially since the sales of these timepieces, very satisfactory in Europe and especially in France, encourage companies concerned to use or even abuse, the propensity of buyers to project in the past. While some argue that this inclination of the watch consumer is its desire to acquire sustainable models, the act of buying a product copying the former does not guarantee, first, that it retains its value the future. However, timepieces, the causal link is real.
Mechanical watches, disappeared for a time with the success of quartz watches in the 80s, were again produced, in response to a public craze for old watches became, in bidding wars force and collectibles investment.So if the current market reflects the interest of consumers for a product technologically outdated, it seems logical that brands do their utmost to satisfy by offering them suitable instruments to convey the idea that the acquisition is not an expense but an investment. And the buyer can believe it because these models are often references heirs whose rating has risen sharply in recent years.
Vintage, a marker of the state of the market
Some analysts have tried to understand the reasons for the presence of vintage models, combining for some periods of market crises, and others with growth cycles. The idea seems attractive to use these timepieces as markers of the market, since they seem to sell more readily than others.However, we must not forget that today brands have a global reach and a catalog with broad spectrum designed to meet the expectations of all, the most clearly stamped parts "retro" are mostly gained on the European market by nationals of the European Community. For example, France is the country that made the highest score in sales of Monaco TAG Heuer. Which is quite logical because this chronograph is associated with our history; as the Reverso Jaeger-LeCoultre, which is sometimes seen by buyers as a French watch. While this is not basically true since the brand is Swiss, they have not totally wrong because it is a French engineer who designed the drawing in the current 20s short, it is difficult to measure the link between periods of crises and the resurgence of vintage watches, it is arguable that the marketing teams, with the line of sight improving sales, tend to push the watchmakers to develop products with a small ancient taste.Moreover, and this should be used as an indicator to confirm this thesis, brands that are not present on the European markets, or whose revenues are marginal, have very few references inspired by the old, that of them are historical or not. An example: Omega, which has long been among the brands leveraging its past offers less historical products as his attention is focused on Asia. Conversely, Longines, which had opened the ball reissues in the 90s by offering watches Angles Times, before taking a direction more "mass market" with instruments unrelated to his past came back strong in this sector since four proposing models taken from historical documents or references from the past. This reading collections notably allows to conclude that if Omega ostensibly to conquer Asia, Longines seems to have chosen to focus its attention on a more Western customers.
Have the spirit of the old
Launched in 1998 the Monaco TAG Heuer continues to hold in the palm of LVMH watches reinterpreted successfully. Yet the room was not the first of its kind. Carrera manually wound had preceded it, but its not really be appreciated.
However, with its automatic winding and its look "seventies", the story associated with it (the 24 hours of Le Mans and the film whose hero is Steve McQueen), she had to seduce thirties looking for a watch that is not that of everyone. The limited edition (the average test sales with a small incentive "collector", without taking risks) was then sold in record time. This sudden success should encourage brand, so instead focused on contemporary models like the new Link, Alter Ego or 2000 series, to treat these as a sector with great potential.What should not escape Omega which already for several years, offered without changing any detail the Moon Speedmaster chronograph watch, a favorite of French chrono watch lovers for space history that vehicle. As the clock Breguet Type XX which itself is an extrapolation of the model dedicated to the French army fighter pilots in the 50s Without quoting all these martial watches were a huge success from 1995 to 2000 and the prices of these historical patterns we saw fly, even to the point of exceeding those of contemporary models. This gave the idea to IWC, which already owned the Mark XV, to revive the Grand aviator, a large watch fighter pilot during World War II. Richemont, at the dawn of the 2000s, capitalizing on the potential of Officine Panerai which she had bought the Italian company in 1997.Slowly, every watch brand with a history beginning to seriously address its history or dive into the catalogs of auction houses, looking for the piece that, at home, was the bearer of their own identity. Oris then had to propose his Big Crown, at competitive prices and attractive young followers of a traditional vision of watchmaking. To date, brands took pleasure in producing instruments that, if they were not completely true to the original, the size as in the mode (usually automatic movement instead of the caliber manual origin), had at least some criteria to be classified reissues, a term used by journalists of the time. The Monaco, Big Crown, the Speedmaster Moonwatch all had a glass hesalite watchmaker name of a kind of plexiglass. This material, very strong but easily scratched, could remain in place on these timepieces, preserving them this quaint little taste that appeals.
Closer to the original
With the expansion of the market and the gain of new customers, the use of brittle materials has gradually thin, brands having as imperative to reduce service representative. Not everyone knows maybe not, but when it is a very fine scratches, plastic glass repolit very well with toothpaste, for example. Similarly, all inspired pieces of old, as the chronograph Pan Europ Hamilton, extrapolation of a model from 1971, published in series limited to the number of his year of birth, are tighter today - and guarantees to be - than are the original models.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso with, ended up revising the housing of its reversible watch by equipping joints, allowing accidental immersion without having to send it to his dealer for a complete overhaul. Times change, like changing the habits and consumption patterns. For this reason, the reissues closer to models having written a page in the history of watchmaking are becoming increasingly rare.However, for the sake of truth, Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen to offer the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea - its first watch diving bell - with a Plexiglas glass as in the past. It also reproduces the two logos that were current at the time and who found themselves on the clock according to geographical sales regions. Thus, the published edition of 359 copies, initially dedicated to the US market, has the "LeCoultre" logo, while that produced 959 copies bear the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand. Question terminology, one could almost, for this particular reference, speak of "Replica"; a term from the world of collectors to describe a product considered a clone of the original. However, a detail difficult to notice banned this qualifier: its size. The latter, to meet the fashion of wearing contemporary, was slightly revised upwards (from 39.8 mm to 40.5 mm).In contrast, the 1960 Grand Seiko Replica Edition, published 130 copies in gold and in steel 1300 to commemorate 130 years of uninterrupted history of Japanese manufacturing, can legitimately claim to be such. Indeed, according to the original model which it takes the measurements, this product adopts a wound mechanical caliber factory manual. Very typical "sixties", this little wonder, some copies should be available for France, however, did a little twist to the story as the super bug hesalite glass is replaced by a glass of the same shape, sapphire crystal . Purists will appreciate the gesture because this change is invisible to who does not know it. In the same spirit, Vulcan offers true fans access to watch nirvana by offering the new edition of the watch of American presidents. This model steel 42 mm wins, such as origin, a manual-winding mechanical movement with alarm function.Connoted "fifties" in two colors, this reference is very close to the original models and adorned, too, a sapphire crystal (initially plexi) to meet the demands of a contemporary wear.
Draw without denaturing
We saw, in the family of vintage watches, many of the pieces produced are based on models with a particular history or participated in various expeditions. This very special relationship between a hero of the past and a brand or model, often works better, in terms of incentive to purchase an advertising campaign in which a celebrity is the face. It seems more important for Western to register their acquisition in a story rather than to associate it with a star, probably for fear of being considered "fashion victims" In fact, choosing a watch inspired by the old, the buyer is in a historical perspective and can justify the acquisition of a mechanical reference may tell the story associated with the model.This is probably why most vintage watches holders are seen as amateurs. It is true that many buyers admit to choose a model based on their affinity with history or with the environment to which they are associated. However, it is not certain that all cavers buy the new Rolex Explorer II, under the pretext that it was designed in 1971 for the followers of the sport to be very fashionable. Having been associated with high-risk adventure gives this model a certain aura, tenfold with the model in orange GMT hand (the original one), very sought after by collectors. Brands, offering instruments able to flatter the egos of everyone, know very well attract customers. Who has not dreamed, in fact, spend a Panerai Radiomir his wrist to feel invested martial mission? The adult is sometimes a big kid who does not know, and a watch is reminiscent of heroes range. Perhaps this is why the military world sells, even if you happen to forget which army they are.Come on, fans of adventure, a little picky about history, have nevertheless spoiled for choice in terms of watchmaking references with a rich past. As for design fans, they will select undoubtedly the Porsche Design Compass, a reinterpretation of the watch with compass, developed in 1978 by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche in person. Others prefer the Eterna KonTiki new generation. It uses visually as mechanically, the model developed by the brand in 1958 to commemorate the Pacific crossing in 1947 a team of scientists led by Thor Heyerdahl, a Norwegian anthropologist. This odyssey, remained engraved in the memories, still today have an influence on trade. And if the heroic fiber sells, simply tap the relevant brands among the models used aircraft involved. This discipline was born along wristwatches, is causing many creations: the Santos de Cartier, made for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904;the latest Zenith Pilot, whose affiliation with a product that existed is not clearly established; the famous clock Breguet Type XXI proposed titanium version of this year. These and other versions, aviation fans will have the choice because the year was prolific. As with Longines which benefited from what a former pilot in the Swiss Air has brought him a watch, made by the brand in the 50s, to revive a series of Twenty-Four Hours. But the game of reinterpretation drivers for models is that Breitling takes the cake with the Navitimer, equipped either Venus or caliber ETA movement, but the Breitling manufacture caliber 01. This gives for once very contemporary instruments whose aesthetic brand spirits.
Daring new frontiers
If the old designs are revisited sell all brands do not have a model that made history page to be able to reconstruct new collections with a promising future.Everyone has the chance, like Hamilton, to enjoy a rich history of high-potential products to boost this year, with unbeatable prices, Pan Europ time and ride the wave of enthusiasm references for watch 70s.
Easily some will say. But what is less clear is to have dared to offer women a vintage product with the launch of the delicate Lady Hamilton Vintage. In his way, Baume & Mercier, whose collection has been fully revised and presented this year at the SIHH also surfs this universe. Thus, Alexander Péraldi, artistic director of design office of the brand, has proposed a new reading of the Capeland and Hampton collections by presenting instruments all designs are extrapolating models of the 40s, the brand kept at the museum. Rather successful, they should meet the expectations of fans watch hardwearing time.In the same vein, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, whose clientele is sometimes confused, surfing on a watchmaking vision where the old spirit is subtly infused with modernity. Which is almost a requirement since these two entities, to stay in tune with the times while earning a permanent nature, must offer watches that guarantee their purchasers a high rating in the collection. This procedure is also of Tudor who was able to draw on his past that is able to attract customers. The brand could well revive the Heritage Advisor design in a stylish conform to the historical model, but it would have been to go against its fundamental principles to aim for the future, without denying its origins. The version presented this year aims contemporary extrapolation of a piece yesterday appreciated, whose codes are able to make a success of tomorrow.
However, a new trend in the world of antique watches revised and corrected, the one where some homes are no longer content to historical pieces, but extrapolate into new to expand their range. Thus, Oris Big Crown X1 with the Calculator chronograph, invented a model, part of the range of Big Crown that equipped the RAF pilots during the Second World War. This new model could, if true, equip Chuck Yeager, the first American test pilot to cross the sound barrier in 1947 with his rocket plane called X1. The retro-futuristic character of the play, which is based on a fiction, is used primarily because of the marketing and communications teams to attract watch enthusiasts dedicated to the airmen with a product that was missing in the range of the brand. It's daring, but it works, as demonstrated by Bell & Ross since its foundation, there fifteen years. One can be a young brand lovers dream with products which include the codes pilot watches 40-50 years, even if the story conveyed not based on anything tangible.What is needed above all, to leave a trace in the history of watchmaking, is reaching consumers dream! Some houses succeed, in the manner of a Ralph Lauren with his Slim Square. The brand sells mechanical dream as a chic and original timepieces inspired by 1920-1930. Or Ebel makes possible to argue its qualities and its centenary history with instruments whose main link with the past is a small signature on the dial. This is obviously lighter, but the product, sober and balanced, should find its audience without difficulty, especially as the company has a good image. It will be understood, have a little something of the spirit of the former seems fundamental to sell in a country like France. As was correctly identified some homes, it is not necessary to start from historical pieces to succeed, a certain alchemy can be enough to convince the public of the annexation of shows of the past.It is the choice of the new IWC Portofino, the designers worked the drawing so that it is possible to visually associate with the "Golden Fifties" and the concept of "Dolce Vita" is known shared by other watch companies. Never mind, it's Parmigiani and Bell & Ross who will this year last word, though Glashütte Original was the first marks the beginning of the third millennium to associate a pocket watch in a box wristwatch. In the case of Parmigiani Fleurier, the Transforma is an original creation managing to combine the spirit of today to buildings yesterday, while allowing to make an "onion" to wear at the end of a chain, a wristwatch. As for Bell & Ross, the brand reaches the metaphor martial watches by offering good sized timepieces - extrapolation pocket watches - which could have been those of biplane pilots during World War II. Original, these expressions of the retro-futuristic trends are at the limit of creation.Attractive and mechanically well armed, they do not have real relationships with those of the time drivers were wearing. Anyway, this phenomenon will grow. Indeed, the marks can not draw endless in their inheritance, without the risk of being lost. And their identification is based in part on the quality of old models, their future is also written to this through their ability to anticipate the future.